This is a posed setup just for illustration purposes, I'm not actually pumping anything here.
First test your entire setup off the car to make sure there are no leaks, it will really mess up your day and car, to have brake fluid spraying all over your cars paintwork, its very corrosive to paint.
Basically you fill the pressure bottle with new brake fluid, attach the hose and clamp the adapter plate onto the reservoir. Set the compressor pressure to approx 18psi ( 125 kPa ), connect a short drain hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to let it drain into a jar. Open the bleed nipple slowly, contents are under pressure, and when the fluid runs clear, it means all the old fluid has been purged from the system, dont forget to close the nipple again, or air will enter the system.
One should bleed the brake /clutch system if you experience a soft, sluggish or spongy pedal action, usually due to air in the system.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic(attracts water) , which results in moisture in the hydraulic fluid, a complete hydraulic system bleed is usually the fix required, or rusting of the brake pipes will occur.
New brake fluid is clear like water and the old moisture ridden stuff is a dirty dark brown color
First test your entire setup off the car to make sure there are no leaks, it will really mess up your day and car, to have brake fluid spraying all over your cars paintwork, its very corrosive to paint.
Basically you fill the pressure bottle with new brake fluid, attach the hose and clamp the adapter plate onto the reservoir. Set the compressor pressure to approx 18psi ( 125 kPa ), connect a short drain hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to let it drain into a jar. Open the bleed nipple slowly, contents are under pressure, and when the fluid runs clear, it means all the old fluid has been purged from the system, dont forget to close the nipple again, or air will enter the system.
One should bleed the brake /clutch system if you experience a soft, sluggish or spongy pedal action, usually due to air in the system.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic(attracts water) , which results in moisture in the hydraulic fluid, a complete hydraulic system bleed is usually the fix required, or rusting of the brake pipes will occur.
New brake fluid is clear like water and the old moisture ridden stuff is a dirty dark brown color
You specifically mention that the author wouldn't want someone adapting his work to MW (which, btw, I find to be a questionable assumption), but then you ask for someone else to go against the author's wishes? WTF?Also, a move from Oblivion to Morrowind is an upgrade, not a 'downgrade'. DDPosts: 3457 Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 4:54 pm. Morag tong armor morrowind.
Should i backup program files. Tips for better search results. Ensure correct spelling and spacing - Examples: 'paper jam'.
Posted by2011 NS Bikes Core 1
5 years agoI've just got my sweet Shimano XT brakes but I screwed up a bit while trimming the hoses. Now I need a bleed.
Hayes Brake Bleed Kit
How to check sent mail on outlook. My LBS offered me an Icetools 'universal' bleed kit for around the equivalent of 50$ which I find ridiculous for a bunch of plastic. I only need a syringe, a plastic tube and that Shimano funnel thing, but I read that this can also be substituted with another syringe and I can't seem to find the funnel in my area anyway.
I'm not sure about the inner diameter of the tube that fits on the bleed nipple though. One place I saw 2mm, elsewhere they wrote 4mm. It's the 2013 model. Has anyone here ever done something similar? Any tips?
Hayes Bleed Kit Homemade For Sale
Edit: thanks for the responses, the conclusion is that it would be awesome to live in the promised land of Amazon, free delivery (or delivery at all) and low prices, but here in the Eastern Bloc I'll go DIY and see what happens. It's going to be tenth of the price of the bleeding kits available for me and if it doesn't work, oh well, I'll fork out the cash next month.. or support the LBS by having them do it :)
Hayes Pro Bleed Kit
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